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It was was May 2001. I was giving a seminar in the village
of Prien, on the Chiemsee lake in south-eastern Bavaria. In this lake is
an island, Herreninsel, which boasts one of Ludwig II's most fantastic
castles. "Mad King Ludwig" occupied this mini-Versailles only 8 days.
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Is that Ludwig falling off the fountain?
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I'd planned to take advantage of Bavaria to do a bit of
hiking. So upon arrival I dumped my stuff at the Yachthotel Chiemsee and
drove to nearby Grassau; from there, hiked up to Schnappenkirsche, at 1100m
(3500ft), below the snowy peak in the distance above Lake Chiemsee.
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| View of Chiemsee from the Schnappenkirsche, a tranquil mountain chapel. | ![]() |
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Two days later, after the workshop I drove to Grainbach,
to begin a hike up the Hochries. I had reserved a bed at the Hochries Gipfelhaus
(peak house).
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| Hmmm...can't see much up there...but I'm committed. | ![]() |
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Soon the hike steepens.
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And the clouds move in.
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Visibility deteriorates.
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Is this the way?
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Yes -- a sign confirms my trail.
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Higher, above the mist now...
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...I gain the Hochries ridge, and gaze northwest over
southern Bavaria.
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| And south over the Austrian mountains. | ![]() |
| At 1654m, the Hochries Gipfelhaus! A welcome sight, made better by warm treatment from Monica, proprietress, and Sabena and Emmy. | ![]() |
| A beer and a nap, and I'm off to explore the valley below. | ![]() |
| Gee! The snow is deep on this side of the mountain! | ![]() |
| I know. I should have worn long pants. And I definitely should have brought my hiking boots. | ![]() |
| Down I go. It's tough going. Later I found out that only a week ago, more than 36" of snow had fallen. | ![]() |
| Reaching this hut and checking against my map, I confirm that I've failed to find the connecting trail into the valley. I can't go on anyway: dark clouds and distant thunder threaten rain. But slogging back, I make it back, drenched, to the Hochries hut and a warm meal. | ![]() |
| The next morning, I head downhill though a chilly fog. A different route offers some variety, and uncertainty. I have a plane to Singapore to catch this evening. First, however, I'm inclined to head a little further south, across the border into Austria. | ![]() |
May 2001
See also: Bavaria - Kilimanjaro