Friday: Monteverde to San Gerardo
We had hiked around a live volcano, swum in hot springs, and sloshed through
miles of high-altitude jungle. We'd seen stinging ants, howler monkeys, hummingbirds
galore, and a sloth at night. Now it was time for our real trek. It was to
be an all-day drive, but we had a minibus to ourselves and a cautious, good-natured
driver, Fabio. 
From Santa Elena, down a rutted dirt road from the Monteverde cloud forest
highlands to the Pan-American Highway and on down the coast for a stop at
Manuel Antonio Reserve.
On the way we saw tropical birds, iguanas and huge crocodiles, and
a few exotics like the koati in the picture. Too many p
eople in the reserve, and time was limited, so we swam in the Pacific to
cool off and set off again, heading south and east via San Isidro to the
Chirripó Highlands and the village of San Gerardo de Rivas. Overnight
at the Vista del Cerro, our staging area for the trek. Met Joan (Catalan
for John), co-hiker from Barcelona, and Andy, guide. Dinner was the usual
"Casada" -- rice, beans and fried plantain -- supplemented with freshly caught
trout.
Saturday: Trek to Chirripó Base Camp
Departed at 6am to begin trekking into Chirripó National Park. We
hiked in stages, stopping for breaks and lunch as we ascended the mountain,
drinking in the lush cloud forest and highland foliage draped in "Old Man's
Beard" mosses. The 15-kilometer uphill trail is steep and the day's hike
took us about 8 1/2 hours. Fortunately most of it is sheltered by an enchanting
forest canopy; as you gain altitude, you look back on beautiful valleys and
treetops.
After passing the scruffy "refugio" Llano Bonito, midpoint for the day, we
began a grueling uphill stretch called La Cuesta del Agua. This climb crests
at Monte Sin Fe ("Faithless Mountain") amid bare, burned tree trunks. One
had to have faith to survive the final relentless uphill kilometer or so. 
Eventually we rounded the last rise to see the Paramo valley below us, with
the Refugio nestling on the hillside and the impressive "Los Crestones" rocks
above and opposite. This hostel is about 6 km from the actual summit. Joan
arrived early, and decided to go to the summit. He returned just before darkness
fell. Andy was feeling ill; he, Jenny and I rested. Later it turned out that
he'd contracted chicken pox.
Sunday: Summit of Mount Chirripó, and Terbi and Los Crestones
Andy roused us at 3am to begin trekking to the summit of Mt. Chirripó
before the fog rolled in. The moon had set and it was a gloomy hike. The fog
chose to stay. Jenny chose to skip the summit and joined us later in the
Valle de los Conejos (Rabbit Valley). No rabbits, but plenty of coyote stool.
Along the way we passed by several glacial lakes and it was clear why the
Talamancan Indians called Chirripo"Place of Enchanted Waters." 
This area is characterized by the páramos (high plains) vegetation.
The name páramo is given to an area of the equatorial heights over
about 9000 feet above sea level. The páramos are an austere landscape
brightened by the flowers of low-lying plants and dwarf shrubs. With few insects
at this altitude, plants must resort to showy colors to attract pollinators.
We climbed to Cerro Terbi and Los Crestones, those magnificent twin rocks,
reaching camp in a sudden rainstorm early that afternoon. Tried to catch
up on some sleep. Joan went for another summit. A cold, restless night at
the Refugio.
Monday: Cerro de la Muerte
Up at 5am, departed at 6:10am. A slow, muddy, descent to Refugio Llano Bonito
and on and on. Would it ever end? Eventually, a late lunch in San Gerardo
de Rivas. Now the exciting part: our exuberant driver set off on a hair-raising
drive in fog and dark to San Jose, dropping off Andy near his mountain home
on Cerro Vueltas. We came to appreciate the name: "Road of Death." The blessing
was our destination -- a huge room with balcony and jacuzzi in a charming
old Spanish-style mansion, Rosa del Paseo, in San Jose.
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